A Brazilian Trip Back to Roots (with a Twist):
Back to Roots trip because I was born in Brazil. Somewhere in the southern part of the country.
This particular trip, however, was special. It was my future wife’s first time there. And for someone who’d left decades ago, it meant I could explore my own birth country for the first time too. Irony isn’t dead; it just speaks Portuguese.
The Lay of the Land – And Some Places Best Left Untouched
São Paulo. We only saw the airport. Because we landed there. Honestly, we’d had our quota of metropolises. I don’t like them that much—too many people running in circles, pretending they have somewhere better to be.
Rio de Janeiro. Copacabana is overrated and dirty. I can say that because I know—I’ve been there and I can. Way better is Parque da Tijuca, or go to Ilha Grande, or better still, visit Paraty. Do yourself a favour: be a dignified person and don’t go to the Favela Tours. Respect the locals. They are not animals in a zoo to be observed. Save your conscience and skip the spectacle.
Fortaleza. Stays warm year-round, so outdoor life, markets and street food run twelve months a year. We met nice people, found decent beaches and tasted good food. But the noise and crowded streets are the daily background, not the exception. Bring earplugs. Or patience. Or both.
Maranhão. Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses—just go there. We rolled around with buggies, vans and 4×4s up and down the dunes. Way too many dunes at the end, but I’ll give them that—it’s spectacular.
Salvador, Bahia. I did not like it. Dirty, chaotic and rotten public infrastructure. Like in most parts of Brazil, the people were kind and nice, though. The city itself? Less charming.
Paraná: Waterfalls and Waiting for Panthers
Moved on to Paraná. Enjoyed Iguazu Falls by boat (get wet, it’s worth it). Visited Parque das Aves—a fantastic experience, and I’m not just saying that. We booked the special tickets that allowed us to have an interactive experience with the animals, feeding toucans and visiting the animal hospital, to name a few to not spoil the surprises. One of the best things we did.
Stayed at Hotel das Cataratas with the intention of seeing panthers roaming around during the night. We did not see any. Still, worth the price for the location alone.
Took the slow, lovely Serra Verde Express train to Morretes through the mountains.
In Curitiba, we did the touristic things: Jardim Botânico, Museu Niemeyer, Museu Indígena… the stuff tourists do. No shame in it; this time.
Santa Catarina – State of Origin
Then we reached Santa Catarina—my “state of origin”. Explored Florianópolis, which we prefer to call Floripa. We do not get along very well with Mr. Floriano Peixoto…
Spent a short stay in my “town of origin”. Encountered capybaras swimming in the river and crossing the streets. Lots of nature, green mountains surrounding the city.
The Return: Vienna in Silence
Back to Austria via München—which I like very much. Not because of the Oktoberfest! Never been there. Try the Old Town instead. And one of the breweries, like Augustiner.
Funny fact: after arriving in Vienna, I immediately reached for my noise-cancelling in-ears… but I wasn’t wearing them! In contrast to the 24/7 noisy atmosphere of “Brasilônia,” the peace and quiet of Habsburg territory sounded like I was in noise-cancelling mode all the time.
Highlights Worth Remembering
To cut a long story short—it was a mostly nice adventure in my country of origin. Even for me, because it allowed me to explore some places for the first time too.
Best highlights:
- Ilha Grande
- Paraty
- Lençóis
- Chapada Diamantina
- Iguazu Falls – Go to the Argentinian side as well.
- Parque das Aves
If You’re Going to Brazil
Apart from the obvious street-smart rules:
- Get your vaccines in order.
- Bug spray everywhere and all the time. You will need it.
- Cash money only in ATMs inside banks—not out on the street.
- Let someone at home knows where you are staying.
- Always have a travel insurance – no matter where you are going to.
- Don’t patronise local communities. Be a traveller, not a tourist.
The Twist: (“home” has no longer a fixed address)
Born in Brazil, sure. But after decades on the road, my identity grew too big to fit inside one country’s borders. My place of origin isn’t “home” anymore—it’s just an impermanent feeling from the past that occasionally drops by for tea.
Countries? To me they’re just names stamped in a passport. Nothing more.
Nomad, stateless, citizen of the world—pick whichever philosophy makes you feel less guilty about having none. I don’t give a damn.
Being rootless? Best fucking thing that’s ever happened to me.
Safe travels,
e.






